When you’re whipping up something sweet, salt is probably the last thing on your mind. But it's a crucial ingredient in both sweet and savory baking, enhancing the flavor, texture and appearance of everything from brownies to muffins to layer cakes.
Salt does way more than just make things salty. According to Rosemary Trout, program director of culinary arts and food science at Drexel University, it “enhances flavors in food,” allowing us to experience taste sensations such as sweet, sour, and umami more fully. It’s such a powerful flavor amplifier that even the fudgiest brownie will taste flat without it. Trout also says that salt “suppresses bitterness," which we typically aren’t looking to taste in a cookie or a sweet roll.
Salt also helps to create the ideal texture and appearance in baked goods. It regulates the rate of fermentation in yeasted baked goods like cinnamon rolls and it also encourages browning. Without it, you’ll be missing out on some of that golden brown deliciousness.
4 Salty Baking Tips
Now that you know why salt is such a crucial ingredient in all baked goods, here are some tips to guarantee you’re using it to its full potential, whatever you’re baking.
1. Use the Right Salt for Your Recipe
While there’s no single “right” type of salt to use in baked goods, most recipes specify a type, and it’s smart to stick to what’s called for. Why? Different types of salt have different densities, which means that if you’re measuring by teaspoons, some salts are “saltier” per teaspoon than others.
For example, Diamond Crystal kosher salt weighs eight grams per tablespoon. Morton’s kosher salt, which has smaller crystals and is more dense, weighs 16 grams. Fine salt, such as sea salt or table salt, can be as heavy as 18 grams.
At Delish, we use Diamond Crystal kosher salt to test and develop all our recipes, but other authors or publications may differ. If you use a different type of salt from what the recipe calls for, you risk under-seasoning or over-seasoning your baked goods.
2. Use the Right Amount (Actually Measure It!)
Many older baking recipes call for “a pinch” of salt. The problem is, calling for such an unspecific, small amount just doesn’t cut it.
How much is a pinch? ¼ teaspoon? ⅛ teaspoon? Whatever it is, it’s probably not enough. Salt is a powerful tool, and it’s important to use the right amount.
Most modern recipes reflect that by giving a specific measurement and even specifying the type of salt to use. But if faced with a recipe that calls for that highly unspecific “pinch,” my advice is to start with ¼ teaspoon, and then to taste the dough or batter. If the flavors aren’t popping and it tastes flat, add another ¼ teaspoon. The only exception to this rule is when you’re making bread dough. I suggest using 1 ½ teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt (or ¾ teaspoon Morton’s kosher salt) for every 2 cups flour in a bread dough recipe.
3. Know Where It Shines
Some flavors benefit from a judicious amount of salt. Anytime you’re working with nuts, caramel, coffee, or chocolate, you’ll need a little more salt to coax those flavors into the spotlight. Also, since salt plays a very important role in gluten development and yeast regulation, don’t be surprised to find a fair amount of salt in any yeasted dough recipe, even if it’s a sweet one!
4. Finish with Flaky Salt
Flaky salt is the caviar of the baking world. It can add a pop of saltiness and textural crunch to the top of cookies and chocolate-topped bars, but (just like caviar) it’s a delicacy that can easily become a cliché if used too frequently or improperly. Don’t get caught into the trap of chucking it on top of any baked good, assuming that it will improve the flavor or texture regardless. Use it where it will actually make a difference.
