In early September, the New Yorker published an opinion piece on orange wine that read more like a rant. In it, the writer bashed the trendy Italian vino with passion, calling it an "assault on pleasure" and "wine to suffer through." And while my first inclination was to ask, "who hurt you, sir? Did they love orange wine?" My second was to figure out wtf this all-natural booze was actually about. Because, turns out, I had no clue! Until now!

Cos Pithos Bianco

Cos Pithos Bianco

What is orange wine?

On a wine Venn diagram, it would fall smack dab in the middle between red and white. According to Bon Appetit, this "skin-contact wine" (unfortunately, yes, that's what it's called) is made like a red but with the same grapes as white. Instead of quickly removing the skin, though, it's left on for weeks or even for months.

Why is it orange?

That skin contact of the grapes is what gives this booze its identity—i.e. the color and flavor. The longer you keep the skin on, the stronger both will be.

What does it taste like?

Unsurprisingly, our pal at the New Yorker didn't have the most complimentary take on taste (...there was a comparison to rubber involved), but what's the ~typical~ flavor profile, you ask? Again, this is dependent on how long that skin is on during fermentation, but it's known to be bold, somewhat savory, and has been called the quirky cousin of beer (mostly by me).

According to sommelier and partner at NYC's popular East Village wine haunt Ruffian who spoke with VinePair, you'll find "mild flavors of stone fruit, like peaches; tea flavors, like strong oolong; and an impression of honey, without actually being sweet."

How does it differ from rosé?

We already know that orange wine is a sort of red and white hybrid, but what about rosé? It's crafted with red wine grapes instead of the white, but is still made with a skin-contact method. The process is just much shorter!

When did this all become a thing?

Despite the sudden surge in popularity, orange wine not a new trend. In fact, it's ancient. Ignore the wannabe sommeliers on Insta; orange wine has been around for 8,000 years, guys.

Is it more expensive?

The bottles can be a little steeper in price because the wine is produced naturally, but like anything, it varies. I've even spotted a few bottles under $15.

Where can you buy it?

Troll your local wine shops, they'll likely have some. But Drizly or 67Wine are a safe bet too, and they deliver.