Restaurants around the world are experiencing a new reality, thanks to TikTok: The need for bouncers. Yes, thanks to viral TikToks and the crowds they create, food establishments of all kinds are hiring bouncers to handle the lines that form outside their businesses.
One such spot in Paris, a wine and ice cream bar called Folderol, noticed lines growing in April when the shop first started to appeal to tourists trying to capture that Parisian je ne sais quoi for social media. This quickly turned into hours-long waits for travelers flocking to the shop this summer. Folderol, which originally opened so that parents could relax with a glass of wine while their kids eat ice cream, has now painted a "No TikTok" sign on the side of the building, as The New York Times reported. They also have signs saying "Be here to have fun, not take pictures" and "Respect your neighbors," which, of course, TikTokers can be found found posing in front of.
It's hitting restaurants on our home turf, too. Katz's Deli, of "I'll have what she's having" fame, now has a bouncer to maintain calm amongst the nearly 4,000 visitors that come to the restaurant daily. Spots like Skirt Steak, also in NYC, had a reviewer's TikTok reach 1 million views overnight in 2021. This lead to a line of more than a hundred people the very next day. This only compounds the chaos that will eventually lead to requiring a bouncer to corral people.
It makes you wonder: Can we still have nice things while also staying relevant on the internet?
In the rise of IYKYK ("if you know you know") coolness, knowing the next cool place is key to the frenzy. TikTok, while useful for bringing awareness and publicity to restaurants, can also undercut a restaurant's entire main objective: to serve as a meeting spot for locals and be a reliable space for food when you're traveling. The hype-chasing of TikTok virality means a spot is chosen for style over substance, making it tricky to stay relevant once the TikTokers eventually go home.
Locals who used to frequent Folderol say it's now "impossible" to go there. The owners say that the demand has been hard to keep up with, leading angry guests to leave 1-star reviews that completely disregard the craftsmanship and care that goes into making their treats. Folderol's handcrafted ice cream takes 48 hours to make, and much of which is left melting on the curb after a picture is snapped.
Viral trends further prove that the customer is not always right, especially now that are TikTokers changing the kinds of dishes that are available in restaurants.
If you've noticed that restaurant dishes have become a bit more caviar-studded, melty, and absurd, that's no coincidence. Grub Street recently reported that restaurants are rolling out cheesier, saucier, more decadent food-pornographic dishes that appeal to the video style and low attention spans of TikTok. This leads to far too many cooks in the literal kitchen, with dining experiences becoming homogenous and full of over-hyped restaurant red flags that are often sourced from the more "aesthetic" TikTok trends, like neon signs, fake ivy, and $100 caviar-covered baked potatoes.
Okay, so you've spotted a trend you really need to try. But how do you avoid not being that guy?
First, identify why you want to go to a viral spot: Do you actually want to enjoy the food, or merely for the pilgrimage and social media clout? If it's for the actual food, proceed to your dining destination, but do leave glowing reviews and savor the moment with respect (quietly, with enough room for workers to do their jobs and other guests to move through), and then quickly let others enjoy. And of course, tip well.
Businesses like Folderol are also starting to crack down on who can loiter on their picturesque curb. They also limit how many wine glasses they use now because they were being stolen by TikTokers. And while this might seem like a good solution, scarcity is just fuel to viral TikTok trends. If something is harder to get, it makes it all the more exciting to strive for, since excess and exclusivity are two sides of the same coin when it comes to TikTok. One such TikToker, Anna Hyclak, even said in a viral TikTok that, after seeing Folderol's storefront go viral, she felt that the pilgrimage would "cure [her] depression to sit on these sidewalks."
Yes, we're officially at that point in this vicious cycle: Some TikTokers will really go all the way to Paris for bouncer-protected ice cream and wine instead of going to therapy.
