Campbell’s, one of the nation's largest food brands, just acquired Rao's, a beloved pasta sauce, as part of a $2.7 billion deal. Rao’s consistently tops other jarred supermarket sauces—including in our own ranking. It’s savory, rich, and brimming with the flavor of fresh tomato.
It’s by far the most coveted brand in the sauce aisle, but many people don’t know that the Rao’s recipe comes from one of the most exclusive restaurants in the country. It’s been one of the hardest tables to get in New York City since it opened in 1896.
Forbes describes Rao’s (pronounced ray-ohs) as “the single toughest restaurant reservation to get in the United States, bar none.” In other words, Rao’s walked so Carbone could run.
But unlike the new downtown celebrity hot spot, this tiny East Harlem restaurant does not accept reservations. In fact, the dining room’s ten tables are all set aside for a select group of regulars.
This wasn’t always their policy, however. A glowing New York Times review in 1977 brought national attention to the tiny spot after it had been in business for 80 years. Then the demand for reservations skyrocketed.
To avoid displacing their loyal local customers, fourth-generation owner Frank Pellegrino Sr. assigned them “table rights” for certain nights of the week or month. Having a standing table at Rao’s became a major status symbol. It’s so valuable that these table rights are passed down to the next generation.
"Every table has been booked every night for the past 38 years,” co-owner Frank Pellegrino Jr. told Town and Country in 2020. “There's weeklies, biweeklies, monthlies, and quarterlies, so in every three-month period, I see all my clients. And now I'm dealing with their children and grandchildren."
Table owners have a few options when it comes to using their time-honored slot. They can take advantage of the table, lend it to friends, or donate the reservation to charity auctions. A dinner at Rao’s can rack up multi-thousand dollar bids.
Some of the regulars and guests who have managed to earn a spot at Rao’s are among the city’s elite. Rao’s boasts that they’ve served Woody Allen, Billy Crystal, Rob Reiner, Nicholas Pileggi, and Danny Aiello. And it’s been reported that Robert DeNiro, Frank Sinatra, Donald Trump, and Al Pacino have all dined at the hot spot.
Of course, it wouldn’t be a classic New York red sauce joint without a smattering of mob-affiliated diners. Rao’s has served the likes of Casa Nostra members John Gotti, Paul Castellano, and Lucky Luciano. It’s even been the site of a few alleged mob-related crimes—arson, bodies dumped in suitcases on the sidewalk, and even murder.
A meal at Rao's is reportedly a magical experience. Dinner service starts roughly at 7 p.m. and diners are seated for the entire night. Rather than picking from a menu, the chefs roll out a stream of Italian specialties. No menu is the same night to night, but you can almost always expect a plate of their renowned meatballs (they revealed the recipe on The Tonight Show if you want to recreate them at home).
In 1992, Frank Pellegrino Sr. decided to launch a line of Rao's jarred pasta sauce. Cut to 30 years later, and their business has expanded to include dried pasta, frozen meals, and soups.
But despite this growth, Rao's is committed to upholding the same values they had when they first opened: high quality, fresh ingredients with no fillers. Campbell's CEO Mark Clouse publicly stated that the parent company is not messing with their time-honored recipes.
The Rao's empire also spans beyond the East Harlem restaurant and packaged food line. They had a Las Vegas outpost in Caesar's Palace for 15 years before closing it in 2021. Their third location in Los Angeles, however, is still standing. Rao's Hollywood serves the same family recipes that can be found in the original kitchen, but in a much larger space. You can actually secure a reservation and order from an a la carte menu. It's the closest most people can get to the Rao's magic without being a part of their inner circle.
