How To Make Scrambled Eggs

Scrambled eggs are the simplest of breakfast foods, but it’s not always simple to whip up a perfect batch. Too often we can find ourselves staring at a plate of eggs that are leaking water or—worse—are so tough they would literally bounce if they hit the floor. The good news is that we can all avoid these less-than-desirable results with a few simple tips and tricks. Follow this (truly simple) recipe (and my top tips for perfectly fluffy scrambled eggs), and you’ll never have to worry about watery or overcooked eggs again.

There are many different types of scrambled eggs in the world—Soft scramble? Large curd? Small?—but for this recipe, we’re focusing on the classic diner-style variety, featuring small, fluffy curds that are super-tender and moist. Here's what you need to know.

How To Make Scrambled Eggs

INGREDIENTS

• Eggs: Large eggs are my go-to, but any size egg will work here. Just be aware that if you’re using smaller eggs, you may want to adjust the amount of salt and water accordingly.
• Kosher Salt: I used Diamond Crystal kosher salt when developing this recipe. If you’re using Morton kosher or table salt (both of which are saltier by volume), I recommend reducing the amount of salt by half.
• Water: Room temperature is best. Whatever you do, avoid using hot!
• Butter: Any type of butter (unsalted or salted) will work well here. If you’re avoiding dairy, you could use oil as well.

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

Start by cracking the eggs into the bowl and adding a hefty pinch of salt (if you like the security of precise measurements, as I often do, 1/4 tsp. should be just right). Use a fork to whisk the eggs until the egg yolks and whites are smoothly combined.

Then whisk in water—yes, water. I know this might seem odd (shouldn’t we be using milk? Or cream?) but hear me out: Water is the best choice here for a few different reasons. The minute the eggs hit the heat of the pan, the water will start to steam off, and that steam will literally help to puff up the eggs, leading to a fluffier scramble. On the other hand, the dairy proteins present in milk or cream don’t combine as well with the egg proteins as water does, and they also don’t cook at the same rate as the egg proteins do. This can result in the eggs “squeezing” the milk or cream back out of the scramble…which leads to those dreaded “watery” scrambled eggs.

Once the water is mixed in, if you have time, I highly recommend leaving the scrambled egg mix to sit for 10 minutes before cooking. This will give the salt time to break down the egg proteins, resulting in scrambled eggs that are more moist and tender (and also a deeper yellow color, which doesn’t necessarily make them taste any better, but is nice aesthetically). If you don’t have 10 minutes to wait, don’t worry: You can scramble them immediately. They may not be as tender, but they’ll still taste great.

When you’re ready to cook, place the butter into an 8" nonstick pan and set it over medium-high heat. Once the butter is melted and foaming, add the eggs and let them sit for 5 seconds, or until a thin film forms on the bottom of the pan. Then, with a flexible rubber spatula, start scraping the edges of the egg into the center. Once you reach the center, continue to stir, moving the tip of the spatula around the pan in a circular motion until fluffy soft curds form.

You’ll want to take the eggs out of the pan when they still look wet on top (but not runny!); if you wait until they appear “done,” they will be overcooked by the time they hit the plate. You might find yourself questioning if you cooked them enough, even as you’re sliding them onto the plate: If you have doubts, give them 30 seconds, and then reassess. There will be some “carry-over” cooking even after they leave the pan. Chances are that when you look at them again, you’ll see they’re completely cooked.

The full list of ingredients and instructions can be found in the recipe below.

Variations

• How To Fry An Egg: Whether you like it sunny-side-up, over-easy, or over-hard, this detailed guide will ensure you end up with the perfect fried egg every time.
• How To Hard-Boil Eggs: If you want to take your breakfast to go, this how-to on hard-boiled tells you everything you need to know.
• How to Poach Eggs: Whether you're serving eggs Benedict for brunch or just want to top your rice bowl with a nourishing protein, this guide takes the stress out of poaching eggs and gives you the tools to succeed.

Recipe Tips

• Use the right-sized pan: When scrambling eggs, the size of the pan can be critical to success. You want the surface of the pan to be small enough that the layer of whisked eggs covers it, but not so small that the layer of egg is too deep. If the pan is too large, the eggs will dry out quicker; if it’s too small, the eggs won’t cook as evenly.
• Commit to medium-high heat: Low heat is great if you are making soft, European-style scrambled eggs, but if you’re hoping for those fluffy, diner-style eggs, high heat is the way to go. That extra bit of heat is necessary for transforming the moisture within the eggs into steam (which makes the eggs fluffy). It might feel counterintuitive, but I promise, once you try it, you’ll never go back.